The raw, wind-swept beauty of the North Devon coast, so vividly captured in Raynor Winn’s bestselling memoir, “The Salt Path,” is an experience that stays with you. For many who read the book or see the film, there is an irresistible pull to walk a section of this coastline for themselves.
Here in Hartland, you are at the very heart of the most dramatic and challenging landscape the South West Coast Path has to offer. And you don’t need to walk hundreds of miles to capture the spirit of the journey. A single, stunning walk from Hartland Quay to the magnificent waterfall at Speke’s Mill Mouth will take you deep into the world Raynor and Moth described, with the welcome comfort of a cosy cottage to return to at the end of the day.
The Route:
Begin your adventure at Hartland Quay, a place steeped in maritime history where the cliffs meet the Atlantic with breathtaking force. From here, the path south towards Speke’s Mill Mouth is a true reflection of the coast path’s character – a series of steep climbs and descents that reward your effort with unparalleled sea views.
The path hugs the cliff edge, offering a bird’s-eye perspective of the churning waves and hidden coves below. It’s a rewarding journey for energetic dogs and their owners, a chance to feel the wind on your face and stretch your legs in some of the UK’s most spectacular scenery.
Key Sights:
The entire walk is a feast for the senses, but the true prize is your destination: Speke’s Mill Mouth. As you approach, the sound of cascading water grows, and soon you’ll be greeted by the magnificent sight of the waterfall plunging down the sheer cliffs to the rocky beach below. It’s a place of raw, wild beauty – perfect for a moment of quiet contemplation and for adventurous dogs to splash in the freshwater pools at the base of the falls.
This secluded, rocky expanse feels like a true escape, a place where you can understand the sense of solace and challenge that the coast path provides.
The Reward: A Well-Earned Pint at The Wreckers Retreat
After retracing your steps to Hartland Quay, a well-earned refreshment awaits at The Wreckers Retreat Bar. This traditional “smugglers inn,” filled with shipwreck memorabilia, is the perfect place to relax and reflect on your walk. On a cold day, its real fires offer a welcome warmth, while on a clear day, the outdoor seating provides one of the best sunset views in Devon.
Most importantly, after a walk with your canine companion, you can be assured of a warm welcome. The Wreckers Retreat allows well-behaved dogs inside the bar area, so you can enjoy a local ale and a hearty meal together. Just remember, while the pub is friendly year-round, the beach at the Quay itself has seasonal dog restrictions (dogs are not permitted from 1st April – 31st October).
The Return to Comfort
There is no better feeling than returning after a challenging walk to the warmth and comfort of your own space. With rosy cheeks and tired legs, you can settle in, put the kettle on, and relax. Staying at Cheristow Cottages provides the perfect base camp for your “Salt Path” adventures, offering a peaceful haven where you can rest and plan the next day’s exploration of this unforgettable coastline.